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How the Finn went from snowstorms in Seinäjoki to Oahu documentarian—with a layover as an A-list pro skater in between
Author: Matt Warshaw | 496 pages | 2011 | 241 x 279 mm | Hardcover
An excavation of perhaps the most infamous pop-cultural misappropriation of surfing—and what it can tell us about riding waves
Er ist Autor von drei Reise- und Lifestyle-Büchern und lebt mit seiner Familie in Kopenhagen
Release date: February 2018
KOOK - What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller Thruster Setup How the Finn went fromWith grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discoveryof surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the oceans beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big hollow wavethat is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredderin a single year,
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